Indian Block Printing: Bagru, Sanganeri and Ajrakh Explained
Hand block printing means exactly that: a design carved into a wooden block, dipped in dye or mordant, and pressed onto cloth by hand, repeated across the fabric with registration judged by eye.
A single design may need several blocks, one per colour or per layer, each aligned against the last.
The Major Traditions
Bagru, Rajasthan, known for earthy tones and dabu mud-resist printing
Sanganeri, near Jaipur, known for fine floral motifs on pale grounds
Ajrakh, Kutch and Sindh, complex multi-stage resist and mordant work in indigo and madder
Bagh, Madhya Pradesh, using natural dyes with distinctive geometric and floral forms
Kalamkari, Andhra Pradesh, which combines block printing with freehand pen work
Ajrakh in particular is as much a resist-dyeing tradition as a printing one, covered in bandhani, ikat and ajrakh.
Why It Takes So Long
Ajrakh can run to sixteen or more stages across weeks: washing, mordanting, resist printing, dyeing, washing again, and repeating in sequence. Each stage has to dry and set before the next.
The blocks themselves are carved by hand from seasoned wood, usually teak, by specialist block carvers who are a separate craft again. A detailed block can take days to cut.
How to Spot Genuine Block Print
Look for slight irregularity in repeat spacing, since registration is judged by eye
Look for small joins where block edges meet, visible on close inspection
Check the reverse, as many block prints show colour penetrating through the cloth
Look for minor colour variation across the length, natural to hand dyeing
Perfect uniformity across metres almost always indicates screen or digital printing
Machine printing imitates these traditions widely, often sold using the tradition's name, so the checks matter.
What Block Print Is Not Suited To
Block printing works on woven fabric that lies flat under pressure. It is not how t-shirt jersey is generally printed, because knitted fabric stretches and distorts under the block.
Our own tees are screen printed, which is the appropriate method for knitted cotton, and we would not describe them as block printed.
How screen printing compares to other garment methods is in t-shirt printing methods compared.
What we publish about our own tees: 100% cotton, 240 GSM (220 GSM on WARLI), screen printed, relaxed unisex fit, XS(40) to XL(48), Rs 1,349. We do not publish factory information or hold environmental certification, and we will not imply otherwise.
Background at Wikipedia's article on textile printing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is hand block printing?
A design carved into a wooden block is dipped in dye or mordant and pressed onto cloth by hand, repeated across the fabric with alignment judged by eye.
How do I identify genuine block print?
Look for slight irregularity in repeat spacing, visible joins where block edges meet, colour penetrating to the reverse, and minor colour variation along the length.
What is the difference between Bagru and Sanganeri?
Bagru is known for earthy tones and dabu mud-resist work, while Sanganeri is known for finer floral motifs printed on pale grounds.
Can t-shirts be block printed?
Rarely. Block printing suits woven fabric that lies flat under pressure. Knitted t-shirt jersey stretches and distorts, so screen printing is the standard method.
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